Mrs. O'Leary's Cow Crust
"Late last night while we were all in bed, Mrs. O'Leary left a lantern in a the shed. Her cow kicked it over and winked her eye and said, There'll be a hot time in the old town tonight." Anonymous
Catherine O'Leary was a humble Irish immigrant living on Chicago's near Southside. Late in the night of Octover 8, 1871 her barn caught on fire, and the conflagration spread on the wings of high winds through thousands of wooden structures. More than 2,000 acres were destroyed and 90,000 were left homeless. The Chicago Tribune reported that the cause of the Great Chicago Fire was Catherine's cow Daisy kicking over a lantern. Years later the story's author admitted he made up the story, but Mrs. O'Leary's cow continues to take the rap. So I have named this rub after her to help rehabilitate her rep.
Most spice rubs are a mix of herbs and spices and we rub them into the meat before cooking. This rub starts out that way, but then we transform it into a thick oil-based paste. The idea is, by mixing them in oil we can extract more flavors and get them into the little pits and cracks on the surface of the meat. Normally marinades and rubs don't go very deep into the meat, but they can change the composition of the surface, and the use of oil fills the microscopic gaps on the surface with fat and flavor, and enhances browning and crust formation.
As background for this recipe, please read my article on the Science of Rubs.
Beef Rub Recipe
Makes. 5 tablespoons of dry rub, enough for a 10 pound roast.
Takes. 15 minutes.
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
2 teaspoons dried rosemary leaves
2 teaspoons dried thyme or oregano
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon American paprika
1/2 teaspoon chipotle or cayenne powder
About the rosemary. You can leave the leaves whole or break them a bit with your hands. I throw them into a mortar and pestle and crush them just a bit to release their flavors. If you have fresh, double the quantity and coarsely chop it.
About the chipotle. Don't be a wuss. This is only 1/2 teaspoon for 10 pounds of meat, and it is all on the surface, not the interior. Like a viola, you don't notice it, but take it out of the orchestra and something is missing.
Optional. Add 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish.
1) Mix everything except the olive oil in a bowl. Store in a jar for use later or proceed to the next step if you plan to use it now.
2) Dry brine the meat hours in advance. When it is time to use the rub, you can use it straight, or mix 1 part of the dry rub with 1 part oil to make a paste.
3) Pat the meat dry with paper towels, pour the paste on and rub it in. You can cook right away.
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