A great way to tenderize tough cuts is by slow cooking in a flavorful liquid, a process called braising. Grilling and smoking is the first choice in warm weather, but when the snowballs fly, braising is the way to go. This classic French stew fills the house with seductive aromas and, if you prepare it on Saturday, refrigerate it overnight, and serve it on Sunday, the house will smell great for two days straight. Besides, braises always taste better the next day, after their flavors have intermingled. Rich meaty, flavorful, and hearty, this is the ideal winter meal with a rich red wine to be followed by an evening wallowing on the couch with a movie.
I like to serve this on a bed of egg noodles, but you can use mashed potatoes, polenta, rice, cous cous, or serve it straight with a crusty loaf of bread. Try it with a simple salad of chopped lettuce and blue cheese with a big, full-bodied red.
Yield. Serves 3-4
Prep time. 30 minutes
Cooking time. 2 1/2 hours
The Beef
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 pounds short ribs, bone in if you can find it, trimmed of excess fat and silverskin
Salt and crushed black pepper
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour, approximately
2 large onions, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1/2" chunks
2 ribs celery, trimmed and cut into 1/2" chunks
1 head garlic, broken into cloves, peeled, and cut in half
2 teaspoon dried herbes de Provence (or equal parts thyme, basil, tarragon)
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard
1 quart unsalted broth (beef, chicken, veggie, or a combo)
1 (14.5 ounce) can chopped or whole tomatoes
1 bottle full-flavored dry red wine such as syrah or shiraz
2 tablespoons sugar
Salt and pepper to taste
Optional. 1/2 cup Nicoise olives, pitted (small, brine-cured olives) and 12 prunes
The Noodles
8 ounces of egg noodles, about 1/2" wide
The Garnish
4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
The Wine
Serve with a big red wine, like a French wine from the Rhone region (which is near Provence) such as a Hermitage, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cote-Rotie, or Gigondas. Another option is a wine from the US or Australia labeled Syrah or Shiraz. These are the same grape, and a big part of the blend used in the Rhone region.
Do this
1) Sprinkle the ribs lightly with salt and pepper and then dust them with flour.
3) In a large heavy pot, about 5 quarts, warm the oil over a medium-high heat until it begins to shimmer. Brown the ribs on the meaty sides. Do them 2 or 3 at a time so you don't crowd them in the pot. They need space to get hot enough to brown and for moisture to evaporate. When they are starting to get dark, remove them with tongs and put them aside on a plate or in a bowl.
4) Drain all the oil except about 3 tablespoons. Add the onions, carrots, and celery. Cook for about 15 minutes or so until soft and browning starts. Add the garlic, herbes de Provence, and bay leaves and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the mustard, stir, and cook for another 2 minutes.
5) Add the ribs, wine, tomatoes, broth, and sugar. Add water if necessary to cover the meat. Bring to a boil but don't let it boil for more than a few seconds, and then dial the temperature to low to a gentle simmer, cover tightly, and cook for 2 1/2 hours.
6) Make sure the ribs are submerged during cooking and that nothing is sticking to the bottom of the pot. After about 2 hours pierce them with a fork and gently twist. The meat should be tender and just about to pull from the bone. Remove the meat and put it in a bowl or on a plate.
7) Turn the heat to high and reduce it to about three cups. While it is cooking, and when the ribs are cool enogh to handle, remove the bones and trim any cartiledge that may have been between the meat and bone.
After the liquid has reduced, let it sit for a few minutes so the fat can rise to the surface. Skim the fat with a large flat spoon and discard it.
8) Start a 2 quart pot of water boiling and add 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Add the noodles and boil according to the instructions on the package.
9) While the noodles are cooking, add the meat back to the braising liquid, add the prunes and olives if you decide to use them (they are optional), and place over a medium burner for about 10 minutes until the meat is warmed through.
10) Place the noodles on the plates, put the meat and veggies on top, pour the liquid on top, sprinkle with parsley.
This page revised 7/20/07
