Sunlite Kentucky Black Barbecue Sauce & Dip for Lamb and Mutton

"Mary Had a Little Lamb. Won't You Have Some, Too? " Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn

The first sheep came over with Columbus on his second voyage and were grown more for their fleece than their meat. Demand for wool kept the US herd up near 60 million head through WWII, and it has been on a steady decline since then, down to about 6 million head today. Tender young lamb is still a popular meat, but far less popular than beef, pork, and chicken.

When a lamb is no longer producing enough wool, more than 1 year old, it is slaughtered for food and the meat is called mutton. It has a distinctive and gamier taste than younger, more succulent lamb. As with so many other barbecue meats such as pork ribs and beef brisket, mutton found its way to the low slow smoker because it is tough, full of connective tissue, and less desirable than lamb.

And why Western Kentucky? Once upon a time, in the 1800s, Kentucky was the largest lamb producing state. It has now fallen to number 34. But the tradition of barbecue mutton lives on in dozens of barbecue joints and church socials. The cuts of choice are shoulder and rear leg.

Black Barbecue Sauce sounds weird, but it is remarkably effective. I was pretty skeptical, but once I tasted it, I understood. Sweet sauce would be all wrong. This thin tart sauce cuts the rich fat, which is more intensely flavored than beef, pork, and chicken by far. The sauce is used as a baste, called a dip, because it is thin and penetrates. It is also used as a finishing sauce.

The meat is prepared in a similar fashion to pulled pork, but it is usually not shredded, it is sliced. It is then doused with the thin sauce that enters all its the openings it can find.

Some places, like the Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn, the most famous of all the Western Kentucky barbecue joints, have two slightly different recipes, one for basting, and one for serving. Moonlite published some of their recipes in a cookbook, Family Favorites from Moonlite, which I tried, and frankly, wasn't impressed. So I studied their published recipes, ordered a bottle from their website, set about trying to reverse engineer it, and then I amped it up a notch. In head to head blind tasting, everyone liked mine better. So I called it Sunlite just to make sure there is no confusion.

Now keep in mind, this is a technique for long low and slow smoked mutton in the fashion of pulled pork. Shoulder or leg can be cooked this way, but for leg of lamb, I prefer a much different method. You can also break shoulder down into cubes and do spiedies or mechoui.

Makes. 3 cups

Takes. 25 minutes.

Keeps. Because it has a high acid content, it can keep for months in the refrigerator.

Ingredients

2 cups water

1/2 cup Lea & Perrins Worcestershire

1/2 cup distilled vinegar

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

7 tablespoons brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon allspice

1/4 teaspoon onion powder

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 1/4 teaspoons lemon juice

Method

1) Mix all the ingredients in a pot and simmer for 10 minutes.

2) Prepare a shoulder of mutton or lamb by removing all the surface fat and the tough silverskin hiding under it.

3) Coat it with a generous layer of Dolly's Lamb Rub And Paste.

4) Preheat your smoker to about 225°F. If you are using a grill, set it up for 2-zone cooking and get the indirect zone to 225°F. Smoke it low and slow as you would a pork shoulder for pulled pork bringing it up to 203°F. Beware of the stall. It can make the process take hours longer. How long will it take? Depends on how thick your meat is, and whether or not you use the Texas Crutch. But it could take up to 8 hours. Start early and have a faux cambro on hand.

5) Cut the meat off the bone in 1/8 to 1/4" thick slices and douse with warm sauce just before serving.

sunlite kentucky black barbecue sauce

Calvin Trillin on Kentucky Mutton

Tummy Trilogy

Calvin Trillin is by all measures a great writer, one of our finest humorists, and he frequently aims his pen and funnybone at food. Since he comes from Kansas City, barbecue is a favorite topic. Some of Trillin's best food writing can be found in The Tummy Trilogy which is actually three books in one.

In February 1977 he wrote a piece in The New Yorker called "Stalking the Barbecued Mutton". Here is an excerpt:

After only six or eight meals of barbecued mutton, I had prepared the report I would give to the first internationally influential eater I ran across. "They serve it just about every way," I would say. "Sliced, chopped, ribs, hidden in burgoo."

"Is it good?"

"It's not bad at all."

"Just not bad?"

"I believe I prefer it to Greek Chili," I would say. "Also, as far as I know, it is not illegal in its most authentic form." Barbecued mutton is, as the saying goes, not Kansas City, but there were reasons not to apply such standards.

In Posh & Pat's, after all, the restaurant gossip going on when I walked in was not about someone's secret sauce formula but about the Burger Farm franchise just down the interstate being replaced by a Wiener King. A local restaurant man who happened to be at Posh & Pat's counter downing a sliced-mutton sandwich said he was thinking of opening a new steak restaurant with an "old depot" décor. "It's all Western or Barn here now," he told me. With the franchisers and décor-mongers closing in, any authentic local specialty obviously needs celebrating.

Did I want a nice river city like Owensboro - a city that, according to my calculations, has a barbecued-mutton restaurant for every fifty-one hundred and eighty-eight residents - to be known as the Ex-Tube Capital of the World? Was it fair to serious eaters like the Chaneys that foreigners should believe their state to be nothing but a jungle of fast-food franchises? "Kentucky is the Barbecued-Mutton Capital of the World," I would tell the first eater of influence I could find. "Spread the word."

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