No self-respecting BBQ joint can call itself “authentic” without Mac ‘n’ Cheese because it is the perfect wingman for BBQ, especially for BBQ with tomato-based sauces
If you go to the grocery you can find numerous versions in boxes, quick, easy, and loaded with salt and preservatives. The homemade version is not only better, but better for you. It is a little time consuming compared to the boxed stuff, but so worth the effort. It is so good and so addictive, I call it Crack ‘n’ Cheese.
Mac ‘n’ Cheese is also an important historic dish. The internet is full of unsubstantiated tales of its invention, including the popular misconception that it was created by Thomas Jefferson (see sidebar). The first recipe I can find comes from the book “The Experienced English House-Keeper”, by Elizabeth Raffald, published in 1769. It contains macaroni, cream, butter, flour, and cheese, much the same as contemporary recipes.
Cheesy Mac became an American favorite, especially among children, when Kraft Foods introduced the Kraft Dinner in a box 1937. It contained dry macaroni and powdered processed cheese. Just boil water, add the pasta, drain, add milk, margarine, the cheese powder, and bake. It became a popular meal in the US during World War II (1941-1945) when meat, cheese, and milk were rationed. In the 1950s husbands knew their housewives were really stylin’ when they riffed on the recipe on the box by adding Velveeta, broccoli, chicken, or even ground beef to make it into a festive entree.
Variations on a theme
The concept of the dish is elegantly simple and brilliant: Chewy tubes of firm pasta filled with rich creamy cheese that sizzles when it comes out of the oven. Actually a casserole because it is baked, it consists of four components: The pasta, the cheese sauce, the mix-ins, and the topping, and they can be varied endlessly. You can keep it simple by just using elbow macaroni and one cheese, or amp it up with a cheese blend, tasty mix-ins, and a fun topping.
Elbow macaroni is the reliable standard, but there’s no reason why you can’t use rigatoni or penne, a bit larger and capable of holding more wonderful creamy cheese.
To make the cheese sauce you have your choice of many cheeses, and I recommend several winning combos below. The All American classic is just plain cheddar, but adding zing from fontina, or asiago, or Cougar Gold is encouraged.
You can go with the straight cheese sauce, or mix in everything from bacon to bell pepper to lobster. Then there’s the topping. You can go chewy gooey with more cheese, or crunchy with croutons.
Julia Moskin makes her case in the New York Times: “Resist the temptation to fiddle around with bread crumbs, corn flakes, tortilla chips and other ingredients that have nothing to do with the dish. When there is enough cheese in and on top of your creation, a brown, crisp crust of toasted cheese will form naturally. There is nothing more delicious. The moral of the story: When in doubt, add more cheese.”
You can do this dish ahead by preparing the casserole with the macaroni, mix-ins, toppings, and cheese sauce separately and refrigerate them a day. Don’t combine them until just before you bake it or things can get soggy. And make extra. It’s fine as leftovers.
For The Mac
- 4 ounces elbow macaroni (by weight)
- ½ teaspoon Morton coarse kosher salt
- 1 quart water
Optional Mix-Ins (Highly Recommended)
- 2 ounces grated Cheddar cheese
- 1 teaspoon paprika
B) Italiano. 2 parts fontina, 1 part asiago, 1 part Parmigiano-Reggiano.
C) Ole Smoky. 2 parts smoked cheddar, 1 part smoked gouda
D) Dutch Treat. Equal amounts edam and gouda.
E) French Accent. Brie or camembert and fresh chevre
F) International. Mix and match from any of the above or try gruyère, manchego, or appenzeller.
G) Tried and true. Use a blend of cheddar, gruyère, and gouda. About the jalapeño. You may want to omit the jalapeño/serrano if kids are eating this dish. On the other hand, if you use green jalapeños and red bell peppers, kids and wusses can pluck out the greenies. For extra heat, substitute chipotle powder for the paprika in the sauce and or the topping. But go easy, that stuff is hot. More optional mix-ins. Create your own signature Crack 'n' Cheese by adding one or more of these: 1/2 cup chopped cooked lobster, crab, shrimp, smoked chicken; leftover pulled pork (without the sauce); 1/4 cup chopped sun dried tomatoes (not the kind in oil) soaked in warm water for 30 minutes and drained; 1/4 cup chopped broccoli; 1/4 cup fresh or frozen peas an/or sweet corn and/or black beans; 1 raw apple, peeled and chopped into 1/4" cubes; or 1/2 tablespoon shredded truffles. For a little kick, add 1/2 chipotle in adobo sauce, chopped fine. For a creamier version. Add 3 ounces cream cheese and substitute cream or half and half for the milk. About the topping. You may need more or less topping depending on the diameter of your pot. For a crunchy topping. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter and mix in 1/4 cup plain bread crumbs, panko, croutons, crumbled Ritz crackers or saltines, or French's fried breaded onions from the can, or a blend. I'm partial to Ritz Crackers with French's Onions. Add this last after the cheese. Optional toppings. Sprinkle fresh parsley, chives, or chopped green onions on top before serving or you can put them in a bowl on the table for people to use if they wish. Caramelized onions have a big wow factor. A secret. For a brighter yellow color, add 1/4 teaspoon turmeric to the cheese sauce. I also like to add 1/2 teaspoon of mustard powder. In a pinch, you can use a one of those packets of mustard that come with Chinese carryout. Make sure it is fresh. It does not age well.
- Heat the oven and water. Preheat the oven to 400°F and put a 2 quart pot with 1 quart of water on a hot burner, add 1/2 teaspoon salt, and crank it up. You'll need it boiling by the time you get to step 4.
- Make the optional mix-ins. You can skip the mix-ins, but they really amp this dish up to 11. In a frying pan cook the bacon over a medium heat until done on one side, turn, and cook until crunchy. Remove the strips and set aside. Eat one strip. Meathead's rule: Always cook an extra strip for the chef. Chop the rest into 1/4" chunks. Pour off all the rendered fat except about 1 tablespoon. Finely chop the onions and peppers (seed the peppers first) and mince the garlic and jalapeño (seed the jalapeno too). Add the onions and peppers, and cook until they get a little limp, but not cooked through. Leave a little crunch. Add the garlic and cook for one minute. Set aside.
- Make the cheese sauce. In a 2 quart saucepan or Dutch oven, melt the butter over a low heat. Add the flour, and, with a whisk, mix them together, and cook for 5 minutes, or until it turns the color of straw. This is called a blonde roux. Be patient if it takes longer. This takes the raw pasty flavor out of the flour and eliminates the grit. Add the milk slowly and whisk thoroughly while adding it, so there are no lumps. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently so it doesn't burn, until it bubbles and thickens a bit, like latex paint. This is called a béchamel sauce. Add the cheese mix, 1/3 at a time, and continue stirring until the cheese is melted and there are no lumps. Mix in the salt, black pepper, paprika, and the add-ins. Turn off the heat.
- Boil the mac. Add the macaroni to the boiling water, and stir. When the water comes back up to a boil, turn the heat down a bit and boil until they are almost al dente, still noticeably crunchy, about 2/3 of the time recommended on the package, probably about 6 minutes from the time it begins to boil. Stir occasionally. Take them off when they are still just a bit chewy because it will cook some more in the oven. Drain in a colander shaking vigorously to get as much water out of the tubes as possible, and leave them in the colander in the sink until the cheese sauce is done. Pour the Mac into the cheese sauce and stir thoroughly.
- Optional: You can cook the mac until it is tender, then pour it in the sauce, mix and serve if you are in a hurry. But to amp it up to 11, proceed to the next step.
- Bake. If you used a 2 quart pan and the handle is oven safe, you can bake it right in the pan. Otherwise, pour the whole macaroni shebang into a 2 quart Pyrex or CorningWare baking dish. If you prefer, pour it into individual serving size oven proof dishes or ramekins. Sprinkle with the cheese topping and then the paprika. If you are going to add a crunchy topping, add it now. Bake at 400°F for 30 minutes or until it begins burbling. Keep an eye on it so the top does not burn.
- Rest. Let it cool for about 15 minutes so nobody's tongue is scalded. That cheese holds heat.
- Scoop any leftovers into an oven proof bowl or ramekin.
- Grate enough cheese to cover the top and sprinkle with paprika or chipotle powder.
- Bake at 400°F for about 30 minutes or until the top is bubbly and it begins to brown.